Finding Blessings in France

The hotel we stayed in last night was the most unique so far. Hôtel le Prieuré was once a priory but has since been converted into a hotel. Its rooms are simple yet elegant, maintaining the feel of monastic cells. The room signs feature churches from around the world dedicated to the Sacred Heart of Jesus. Mine was from Dijon, France — home of my favorite saint, Elizabeth of the Trinity.

After breakfast, we walked right across the street to the Perpetual Adoration chapel to spend some time in prayer. We soon made our way to the Basilica of the Sacred Heart, built in the twelfth century. Moving at our own pace, we explored the Chapel of the Apparitions — where Jesus revealed His Sacred Heart to St. Margaret Mary and where she is interred — as well as the Chapel of St. Claude de la Colombière, where the saintly Jesuit who served as her spiritual director now rests.

Some of us watched a short film (in English!) about the lives of Sts. Margaret Mary and Claude de la Colombière. The message of Jesus’ apparitions to St. Margaret Mary is simple yet profound: the Heart of Jesus burns with love for all of us, and we can make reparation for the indifference of others through frequent Holy Communion and acts of sacrificial love.

At 11:00 we boarded the bus once again, traveling toward Ars. For the first time on our pilgrimage, the weather was cool and misty throughout the day. A large local fire closed several highways, causing significant traffic delays. Things were not working in our favor.

We eventually reached the small town of Ars, surrounded by golden grain fields. Finding a place to eat lunch proved challenging, as many businesses in town were closed, but we managed to locate a few restaurants that could accommodate small groups from our bus.

Our 3:30 p.m. Mass took place not only in the Basilica of St. John Vianney but right at the tomb of the saint himself! Fr. Ray was the principal celebrant, and Fr. Swink preached the homily. He reminded us that St. John Vianney is the patron saint of parish priests because he is the only diocesan priest who has ever been canonized. In the wake of the French Revolution, the humble curé transformed the once-indifferent town of Ars into a holy place of pilgrimage through tireless work, fervent prayer, and great personal sacrifice. Each day, he slept as little as three hours, spent up to seventeen hours in the confessional, and ate only a single potato — until his doctors insisted otherwise!

After Mass, we learned that our tour guide was delayed by the same fire that had slowed our travels and would not be able to make it. Providentially, a French religious sister with broken (but impressive) English volunteered to step in, offering a beautiful and heartfelt account of St. John Vianney’s life. One story she shared felt especially fitting: whenever the curé faced significant difficulties, he took them as a sign that the devil was trying to hinder his work — and that the Lord was about to bring good out of the struggle. This delightful French nun turned out to be the blessing hidden in our inconvenience.

After our inspiring visit to Ars, we set out for a two-night stay in Lalouvesc, resting place of St. John Francis Regis. The drive through the foggy mountain roads took longer than expected, and we didn’t arrive for dinner until well after 9 p.m. It was delicious, but the slow pace of French dining made for a very late night. Like St. John Vianney, we should expect many blessings tomorrow!

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